50 Comentários

1. hello, I have a bmw e60 520 177cv 2008. I feel vibrations in the gear knob and in the seats but also in the bodywork and the exhaust. In this regard I have changed various components such as engine mounts, crankshaft pulley but the vibrations have not disappeared.I was thinking of changing the shaft joint and the longitudinal shaft support. Can you recommend other interventions that I could do in this regard? Thanks, I'm waiting for your feedback.

2. Great vid
   Mich appreciated

   Noise might comes from CV joint ?! Self locking if worn or insufficient lubrication …

3. im assuming this is not a xdrive?

4. Demonstration on how to preload the driveshaft?

5. Well done used this as a tutorial and all went well and no more knocking thanks lad

6. Spot on

7. Does that center bearing fail often and will it cause vibrations at freeway speeds?

8. I have E60 110 miles on it with same issue you are telling in your video so did you find the solution yet

9. Thank you so much for the video. Well explained. I will start doing this also, tomorrow 😎😎

10. Differential support bushing!

11. Never put a driveshaft is a vise by clamping down on the tube. It is a sure way to "F" it up. Guibo is pronounced Jooboh. Your issue probably was that your constant velocity joint is worn which you have should have replaced anyway since you were in to it that far. Also check the U joint for play and if you lost any balance weights.

12. Where u based mate

13. Is there a specific torque to tighten down the flex discs?

14. you installed the flex disc in the wrong position, the arrow must be pointing to the metal flange on either the transmission or driveshaft side.

15. Will a cracked guibo cause rough shifting?

16. Could be the differential bushes. I would fit a go pro under the vehicle to see if there is something obvious.

17. You don't have to remove the entire drive shaft, just the front half. I did it this past weekend

18. Could it be your driveshafts? I have a similar issue on my e88 when going from first to reverse and it’s bloody annoying … getting the shop to look at it soon (they say it likely prop needs grease)

19. An other nice video from you. I have a F11 i have vibration on highway-speeds. But it is after 120 – 130 not before. The vibration is always there. I have three set of wheels two sets of 17” and 19”. All wheels are balanced and 0-0 on the machine. 19” wheels are fitted with brand new continental sport contact 6 but the vibration are still there. Could the culprit be driveshaft or engine/transmission mounts?

20. Молодец!!!!)))) Лайк

21. Usually I do all my own repairs ( but this clunk/tink noise ) well it's looking like I maybe best to just take the car to my local bmw dealer / they probably come across this issue all the time.

    Because to me it looks like us DIYer's are wasting money replacing parts that just didn't need replacing.

22. What about the dif output flange idea in these comments.. I'm looking at this procedure in ISTA+ look's like another small array of special tools. ( Have you done yours? – & – if so, did this fix the clunk/tink noise?? )

    Kind regards, Lex.

23. Hi George, Did you ever figure out what the clunk was? I have a bmw 2007 320i m-sport manual 6speed that makes a tink/clunk most pronounced on take off ( a stopped start ) or if I say change down a gear to take a conner when I power on I get a Tink/Clunk type noise. I too am actually in the process of changing the flex-disk & centre support/bearing – I haven't bought the parts yet ( was going to do that tomorrow / but now I'm not so sure after watching this ) I have my driveshaft out of the car the centre support is cracked in the rubber part also the flex-disk is cracked/split so I guess I may as well replace them. But I'm trying to fix my very annoying clunk which by the sounds will still be there after I complete this dam job. Oh no!
    Please let me know if you found a solution. I've looked & looked ……

24. bruh, you’re one of my Top-5s BMW gurus. Rock on man. Did you check the end Bushing on the front shaft?
    Dealers call it ‘Centering Sleeve?’ that bushing costs about $15-$20 US dollars.
    I hope this is the culprit and hope it helps.

25. I've got a bad rumbling sound happening that is very noticeable in low speed in my rear to dead center. Could replacing these parts fix this possibly?

26. Also mark your two parts to put them back together correctly!!!!!!!

27. Gracias! ☺️

28. Another great and honest video mate! I am happy I dont have the bolt putting both shaft together on my E91 325XI. At first sight I was like "Holy crap the bolt is missing or there is even some pin >:(" but at the end it was like just pull out shafts from each other but firstly mark it so that you can put it back together like it was :). Keep up lad!

29. Toppppp

30. The issue is either your rear wheel bearings or one of your driveshaft axles which hold the wheel bearings. Had the same issue

31. Where did you put those to suspend the car? I don't know the name of it🙈

32. Maybe the differencial?

33. Hi. Have you seen how the engine supports are doing?

34. Is there any way to know how the prop shaft goes into spline? Did a trans swap so i just removed prop shaft off without marking it. Stupid mistake.

35. I was pondering swapping out those two parts. Took to a local mechanic (whom I can honestly say I trust) he told me that I would need to change the entire driveshaft bc he said it was the universal joints that were going bad and causing my clunk at acceleration. Bc the entire part is more than I’m willing to pay I have not changed anything yet. Did you not have to buy any gasket for the exhaust since you removed it or new bolts for the bolts you removed?

36. Wymiana dobrych części na nowe, hujowa diagnoza. Przegóby wewnętrzne pewnie były zdymane.

37. I was hoping your propshaft halves went together like my GTV6's. Mine has a bushing on the front with an olive bearing on the rear half and I'm having a hard time this time getting the bearing into the bushing (I have a center guibo tying them together.) When you started taking your halves I was thinking "Oh no! He didn't mark it!". I can't imagine the hassle getting it right again! I DID forget the first time I had mine apart, but with the center guibo it only has three positions to choose from so it was easy to sort out. It's nice listening to a tutorial when proper terminology is used!

38. It might be the position of the nuts on the giubo… the ones that goes into the transmission need to be doing the pressure towards the nuts in the shaft in the thicker part of the giubo…

39. Your u joints

40. I think you installed the Giubo wrong. there are arrows on it they have to point to the item being attached, if you turn the prop shaft one bolt hole over it will point to the shaft and the other 3 arrows will point to the transmission. here is the explanation https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vw7Zbp1rfGI

41. Common issue with BMW the universal joint just before diff has lost all lubricant and its practically seized inside the boss.
    BMW recommend replacing the Propshaft because changing only the U joint will throw the shaft out of balance you will very likely get vibrations.

42. To much bla bla.

43. The clunking sound is the diff output flange. Needs taking out, regreasing and locktite applied to the spline. Bmw service bulletin SI B33 04 09

44. I appreciate your work bro I even sat thru the commercials instead of skipping em which I never do!. What was the problem. New sunscrjber too btw

45. Hello I heave the same problem in my e60. Solution is joint in driveshaft by differencial side nr OE 26117548392

46. Perfect explanation! Extremely helpful! Thank you!

47. removing the fucker for rwd

48. Hi George, did you had any luck finding the clunk sound origin ? Thanks !

49. I was told by my mechanic that my universal joint was unstable on my E38. He recommended replacing the propeller shaft end to end. He said rebuilds were fine to use or buy new, but they have to be perfectly balanced.

50. Did you pre load the bearing?